A WORLD OF THANKS

10/25/2005

Earlier this year, on a whim, I contacted a photographer whose astonishing work had stopped me in my tracks, to inquire about a possible internship or assistant position. Now almost ten months later, after having spent just under two months in India I’ve returned to the states with quite an experience under my belt. I can honestly say that the lens through which I see the world has been permanently and profoundly changed.

I could not have made the Foto Far East project possible without the following people and to them I owe a lifetime of thanks:

First of all I’d like to thank master Tarun Khiwal for his immense generosity, patience, commitment to education and the constant growth that results from it and for sharing his world and his remarkable talents. Manpreet, Pandey, and Manish for sharing their world with me, helping me get around, and introducing me to Kachori with Subzi and Rajma Chawal. I’d like to thank my loving and supportive parents for always believing in me no matter how crazy my ideas are, Uncle Jack and Aunt Kathy for helping me get my wings and then teaching me how to fly, and Sarah Mac for everything, period. I’d also like to thank The Brooks Institute of Photography for its involvement and support, Bill Robbins, Inge Kautzmann, Carla White, Pat Murdy, Dr. Greg Strick, Greg Lawler and the rest of the Brooks IT department.

I’d like to thank Maggie, Steve, Alan, Clayton, and Daniella for helping with loose ends while I was abroad. Last but not least, I’d like to thank all of my family and friends who encouraged me to go, who said they were so proud, and even who though this whole damn thing was just bloody crazy.

HOME SWEET HOME

I'm back in the U.S. now after spending 24 hours in the air over two great oceans and countless countries. We watched the sun rise twice from the plane and gained half a day on the return. I can't say just whether I was ready to leave the great land of Mahabharata but I will say that its great to be home in beautiful California, USA.

My journey took me to places that I could not have created in my wildest dreams, I experienced sights, sounds, and smells that I never knew existed, and I met new friends that I hope to have for the rest of my life. On more than one occasion the conversation arose about what exactly I came to India to learn. Tarun and I both agreed that I didn't need to travel to the other side of the earth to learn how to set up a light stand or fill out an invoice. Don't get me wrong, the industry is not much different in India than my experience would have me know of the industry in the U.S. The same relationships exist between photographer and clients and art directors and other photographers, etc. As with all busy photo studios, there are exhausting shoots, constantly ringing phones, cds to be burned and delivered, and paperwork to be filed. My real lessons however, became about the Indian sensibility that is present in Tarun's work. It was in seeing the colors of which intensity we just don't have in the western world, the textures of buildings that can only be produced by centuries of exposure to a harsh environment, the craftmenship and artistry that has taken a thousand years to perfect, the way ice-cold, sweet lemonade tastes when your body really needs it to sustain in the heat. It is through experiencing these things that my real lessons were found. I am returning home with a new sense of spirituality and an altered perception of the world. I now know that I am not through with India, that this trip was only my maiden voyage into this exotic and challenging country. For now, I can't wait to get back to work, creating new images with a perception that has been permanently altered by the world that I found on the other side of the globe.

Here are a few more photos and tales to accompany from my last week in India.

CHANDNI CHOWK

My story would not be complete if I didn't mention Chandni Chowk. Chandni Chowk is a bustling marketplace and the pounding heart of Old Delhi. When I mentioned to Tarun that we had been spending some time there, the reply was "We don't even go there." The area is composed of a maze of narrow alley ways jam packed shoulder to shoulder with people, carts, bicycles, and various small critters. On more than one occasion I had to rely on my compass just to find my way out.













WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

One of my favorite things about being in India was all the wildlife that intermingles with society. I felt like a little boy the first time we passed a camel cart on the road.

SHAKEN NOT STIRRED

By now everyone's heard the news of the devastating earthquake in Kashmir. When last I checked the death toll was upwards of 30,000. We've received several emails inquiring about our safety and I'd like to thank everyone for their concerns. I am happy to report that all is well in my area but my heart goes out to those who were not so lucky.

I will say that the quake gave me a quite a start. My hotel room began to move sometime around 9:00 a.m. At first I wasn't quite sure what was going on but within seconds there was no mistaking what was happening. I haven't felt the ground move like this since the great quake of '89 in San Francisco. It lasted between one and two minutes but felt more like five. Considering that the building codes here (or lack there of) are a little shady, to say the least, I feel very lucky to have avoided a major catastrophe. I only wish that the rest of the region could share in my good fortune.

THE GREAT TAJ CAPER

A slow day at the studio yesterday gave me a window of opportunity to travel to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. Agra is about a four hour car ride from Delhi but the Shatabdi Express makes the trip once a day in just under two hours. The train leaves New Delhi Train Station at 6:00 a.m. My Lonely Planet guide book talks about the insanity of the station but words do not do it justice. Just when I think my eyes are becoming numb to my surroundings there is always something to remind me that I am on another planet...this time it was the train station.

I thought getting there a half an hour early would be fine but I soon learned that this was not so. Lonely Planet tells you to purchase tickets from one place in the station and only one place. It goes on to warn you of the many conmen who try to lure you away with stories that the window has closed or moved, etc. These men come in all shapes and sizes from shady looking characters with bare feet to men in uniform with i.d. cards that prove their "validity." To make a long story short there is NOBODY to trust.

When I finally found the right counter, it really was closed and the outcome was taxi ride back to my hotel under a cloud of frustration and embarassment for letting this damn place get the best of me. After an hour of deliberation, I decided the best bet would be to hire a car a much higher price and press on.



The great Taj Mahal in all of its glory.



This photo was taken from the base of the Taj.

CASTLES MADE OF SAND, PART III

A few more photos from Neemrana village and the fort palace:









The above images were taken in and around the fort. The image below is of a hog who is very happy to be living in a place where most of the population is vegetarian.



Here are more scenes from the village.







The villages here are a photographer's dream. Everywhere you turn there is a great image waiting to be born. I actually have to switch off photographer mode sometimes and just let everthing soak in. (This usually doesn't last long).



Dealing with the children is a lot of fun. Walking through a village filled with curious children is like being a Hollywood celebrity. They are so fascinated with us and they always make for great shots.

CASTLES MADE OF SAND, PART II

The palace comes to life at sundown. From the village below, a couple and their young boy come up to sing traditional Rajasthani folk songs and dance. Its like nothing I've ever seen and again, I'm laughing out loud at this crazy amazing place. After a couple of glasses of French wine I took to dancing with the boy and we were quickly their favorite members of the small audience.











The next day while wandering the coutryside, we were befriended by a young Rajasthani woman dressed in a brightly colored sari. Her name was Santos. She walked with us while we explored a nearby step well that descended seven stories into the earth. On our way back, she insisted that we visit her home, which was a beautiful shanty tent. We sat on a handcrafted bed while she showed us photos of family members and travelers she had met. Then low and behold, who should appear but the young performer from the previous night dressed in shorts and a dirty shirt. He seemed excited to see us. No sooner did he adorn his brigh red robe and turban than festive music came from a rusty radio and he began performing for us right there in the tent. The opportunity to be with these people in their home in the Rajasthani country side was quite an experience indeed and to this point has been the highlight of my adventure.

CASTLES MADE OF SAND

I've had an amazing week here in India and as I've been without internet for a week, I don't exactly know where to begin. I've had some amazing photo opportunities, but I only wish I could share some of the things that I have seen and not had the chance to shoot.

I really came at the right time because it is a big season for advertising agencies and the studio is really busy. Earlier this week we did a shoot for a jewelry advertisement. It was a pretty mellow shoot but the results were amazing. The great thing about shooting in India, is that its not hard at all to find a great location. Every corner you turn there is a spot with centuries of character. This particular ad called for a period look so we rented out an antique shop near the studio for the day.

Later in the week, Tarun had to go to Dubai to shoot a campaign for a clothing manufacturer. Unfortunately the budget did not allow for me to go so he sent me ahead to the location of our next shoot. I was disapointed at first not to be going to Dubai but the alternative turned out to be the experience of a lifetime.

The location was a 15th century fort palace set on a hillside in the desert of Rajasthan. It has been converted to a luxury resort but definitely maintains its old world charm. To paint a more accurate picture, it was like being in some palace from Lord of the Rings.
Surrounding the palace, at the foot of the hill, is a village where time has stood still for a century. Needless to say, it made for some great photo material and sometimes I found myself laughing out loud at the fact that I was there.





I'm working on images from the last week. Stay tuned, a lot more to come...